The Andrew Geoghegan Brand
Award winning British jewellery designer
Celebrating Great British design in the Jubilee year
Choosing a piece of contemporary jewellery can and should be an absolute pleasure but we are aware that it can also be daunting for some. Regardless of which category you fall into we are confident that the information in this section of the site will help you with your decision. Please do not hesitate to contact us for any questions you have that are not answered here.
Gold is available in a variety of carats which relate to the percentage content of pure gold. Carats generally available are 9,14,18,22 and 24. 9ct is described as gold only in the UK, elsewhere it is described as just an alloy due to its low percentage of pure gold. This percentage is 37.5 which is shown as 375 on the hallmark. 18ct gold is shown as 750, signifying 75% pure gold. 24 carat is pure gold which is relatively soft and because of this is seldom used in jewellery manufacturing within the UK.
The other additions alloyed with gold effect colour and hardness of the metal. For example 18ct white gold is given the white appearance from palladium generally. Rose gold may have copper added to provide the colour and green and blue are also available. Regarding hardness, 18ct white is generally considered the hardest of the golds however it does depend on how the metal is produced and worked.
Platinum is considered the most durable of the precious metals and is noticeably denser than gold. Because of its durability it is most suited to wedding and engagement rings and it keeps its lustre longer than gold. Platinum hallmarks show the number 950, which signifies 95% pure platinum. One of the major benefits of platinum is that it retains its weight more than its golden rivals. Rather than metal being ‘worn off’ the piece of jewellery it is merely pushed around.
At Andrew Geoghegan Ltd we would always recommend platinum if the budget allows. If customers are not able to afford the significantly more expensive platinum and they want a white metal, 18ct white is the next best alternative. Unplated 18ct white gold has a slight grey or brown tinge which is generally undesirable. This can be resolved by rhodium plating where a coating of rhodium is applied to the jewellery. Rhodium is a similar metal to platinum that resembles its bright white appearance. This also helps to marginally toughen the surface, however, the plating will wear off over time. The amount of time the plating lasts depends very much on how often the jewellery is worn and whether the owner is a ‘heavy-wearer’. Typically plating will last several years. Take a look at our platinum eternity rings or platinum engagement rings.
Silver is the softest precious metal and is signified in its hallmark of 925 meaning 92.5% pure silver. Not generally used for wedding or engagement rings due to its softness and the speed at which it can oxidise and mark.