Buyers Guide

We will start with what is perceived as the most important feature of an engagement ring, the stone.

The Stone

The first question to ask is “How many?”

For those who want to keep things simple, a solitaire such as the Box Ring, would be an ideal choice. The uncomplicated form allows the stone to be displayed in all its glory.

The more adventurous might consider a three stone ring such as the Triumph.

For more luxurious detail the main diamond can be surrounded by a series of dazzling smaller stones, or the shoulders can be highlighted with a stunning line of brilliant cuts.

The Fission Cluster and Fission Highlight display these choices perfectly however the jewels in the AG crown have to be the Reveal and Embrace. The subtle pave diamonds behind the main stone add a rare and ingenious quality to the ring and are one of the reasons why these are (and will be) best sellers in the AG range

Colour

 

White diamond is the classic, timeless option but gone are the days when they make up all engagement rings.

For those who desire colour; deep red ruby, a spectrum of sapphire hues, yellow diamond, chocolate diamonds, sumptuous tanzanite and aquamarine are all firm favorites.   

Shape and Cut

A selection of stone cuts are illustrated in this article below. Each have their own inimitable charm.

The brilliant and princess cuts have long been favorites, due to their affordability, brilliance, availability and symmetry. Some, however, prefer the understated elegance of an emerald or asscher cut.

For the more daring there are flamboyant cuts like the marquis and oval but always be aware that the ring will need an accompanying wedding band to fit.

Metal

With the stones taken care of it is the turn of metal. (For the science on precious metal properties see the facts further on in this article.)

The metal colour needs some thought.  If platinum, the most durable, rarest and purest precious metal is preferred then there is no option. However, if some form of gold is the preferred choice, then there’s white, yellow and rose gold to choose from.

18ct gold offers richer colours than the less pure 9ct alternative. The colours can be combined in a ring to create some playful contrast such as the Unity Brilliant. Be careful, however, if coloured stones are involved too much contrast may spoil the design.

Form and Style

As with stones there are a wide range of styles to choose from; angular, organic or curvaceous; abstract or traditional.  It’s important that the ring design is not too heavily based on fashion or trends but on balance, aesthetics, and wearability. Ensuring the ring you choose today will be admired through the generations of your family, to become a treasured future heirloom.

The form of the ring also has implications on matching wedding and eternity rings. If a simple flat edged wedding and eternity ring is preferred then the engagement ring should also have a flat edge, such as the Aqueous and Kiss.

Bear in mind that more prominent settings or larger stones in an engagement ring generally necessitates a more dramatic sweep or curve in the wedding and eternity rings, such as the Octo or Lattice.  

The Facts

Diamonds

Diamond is the hardest natural element and is highly prized for its remarkable optical qualities. If cut correctly, a diamond can reflect a dazzling spectrum of light. Diamonds are not indestructible and do break and chip. When the qualities of diamonds are discussed you will often hear the phrase “The Four C’s”. This refers to the Carat, Clarity, Colour and Cut of a diamond:

Carat

The unit for weighing diamonds which originates from the seed of the carab tree which has a uniform mass and was used by gem traders to measure the weight of stones. This unit is further divided up into fractions such as ¼ of a carat, or points where 100 points is equal to 1 carat. ¼ of a carat could be termed 25points.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the amount of inclusions in a diamond. All diamonds are categorised as Flawless, VVS (very very slightly included), VS (very slightly included), SI (slightly included), to I (included) (‘I’ is sometimes referred to as PK). There are further sub-categories within these as shown in the table below. Flawless is the most desirable clarity and relatively rare. At the other and of the scale, the inclusions in ‘I’ stones are generally noticeable to the trained eye, and have an effect on the brilliance and possibly durability of the stone.

 

 

 

 

 

Colour

Noted by letters of the alphabet starting from D – colourless or no yellow, through to Z – heavy yellow tint. D to K are the most common colours available on the market where D is the most desirable and valuable.
There are also natural fancy coloured diamonds; these can be, amongst others, intense yellow (after Z), pink, green and blue. ‘White’ diamonds are a great deal rarer and can demand huge prices. Treated Diamonds are diamonds that have been through a process (radiation for example) which alters or enhances their colour.

 

 

 

Cut

The cut refers to shape of the diamond. Examples include; Brilliant (round), Princess (square), Emerald (octagonal), Oval, Marquis (eye-shaped) and the list goes on. The Brilliant and Princess cuts have long been firm favourites, although each cut has its own beautiful characteristics such as the ‘corridor’ effect evident in the emerald cut.

 

 

 

 

 

Another important concern relates to the proportions and symmetry of the stone, which can also referred to as the Make. This has a huge effect on the ‘life’ of the stone, for example if a diamond is cut shallow then it will appear quite lifeless. This aspect is often overlooked due to the complexity of judging the ‘make’. It is, however, as relevant as the four C’s.

Precious Metals

Gold

Gold is available in a variety of carats which relate to the percentage content of pure gold. Carats generally available are 9,14,18,22 and 24. 9ct is only termed gold in the UK, elsewhere it is described as just an alloy due to its low percentage of pure gold. This percentage is 37.5 which is shown as 375 on the hallmark (shown above). 18ct gold is shown as 750, signifying 75% pure gold (also shown above). 24 carat is pure gold which is relatively soft and because of this is seldom used in jewellery manufacturing within the UK.

Gold colour and hardness.

The other additions alloyed with gold effect colour and hardness of the metal. For example 18ct white gold is given the white appearance from palladium. Rose gold may have copper added to provide the colour and green and blue are also available. With regards to hardness, 18ct white is generally considered the hardest of the golds however it does depend on how the metal is produced and worked.

Platinum

Platinum is considered the most durable of the precious metals and is noticeably denser than gold. Because of its durability it is most suited to wedding and engagement rings and it keeps its lustre longer than gold. Platinum hallmarks show the number 950 (shown above), which signifies 95% pure platinum.
If customers are not able to afford the significantly more expensive platinum and they want a white metal, 18ct white is the next best alternative. Unplated 18ct white gold has a slight grey or brown tinge which is generally undesirable. This can be resolved by rhodium plating, which coats the jewellery with rhodium, a metal similar to platinum that resembles its bright white appearance. This also helps marginally toughen the surface, however, the plating will wear off over time. The amount of time the plating lasts depends very much on how often the jewellery is worn and whether the owner is a ‘heavy-wearer’. Typically plating will last several years.

Silver

Silver is the softest precious metal and is signified in its hallmark of 925 meaning 92.5% pure silver. Not generally used for wedding or engagement rings due to its softness and the speed at which it can oxidise and mark.